Wednesday, April 22, 2015

What Causes A WAVY ROOF?

Have a wavy roof and trying to figure out why or looking for a fix?  A roof with a wavy look to it can be caused by a number of reasons, but the problem may be short lived.  Let’s take a look at some of the typical causes of a wavy shingles, especially after a new roof is installed.

Causes of a wavy roof:

The felt paper used on the decking was potentially wet or bubbly when laid down.  Thankfully this is something that can be fixed with just a little time and heat.  Typically after a few warm summer weeks, the shingles will lay flat and you will no longer notice the wavy look.First layer of shingles were wavy and the roofer laid directly over the existing layer.  This is a bad move, a roofing company should not lay new roofing shingles over shingles that are wavy.  A new roof will be required, after stripping both layers of shingles, to achieve a quality flat look.Damaged decking could also cause a wavy look to shingles.  Inspect the plywood from the attic and look for cracks, sagging, or rotting.  If any of this is found, be sure to have a roofer replace any plywood, with the required thickness of board that is code for where you live.Quality of the roofing work in general can also cause a roof to look wavy.  Potentially it could be caused if the shingles were not properly aligned or not nailed fully.  Ultimately there is no single answer for why a roof may look wavy, but could be a combination of factors.

To avoid having a wavy roof, use a licensed roofer and not just a general contractor.  Expert roof installation is required to keep things like this from happening.

Tuesday, March 17, 2015

Radon takes 21,000 lives each year

Each year, radon kills more people than home fires, drowning, falls or drunk driving. It takes some 21,000 lives annually, and is the No. 1 cause of lung cancer in nonsmokers.

Radon is present in every home and levels can vary from home to home. 

http://www.theepochtimes.com/n3/1251215-radons-link-to-lung-cancer/

Friday, February 13, 2015

Carpenter Ants

Mistaken Identity
Carpenter Ants should not be confused with termites. Termites are white in color and are smaller than a grain of rice. Carpenter ants look like regular black ants, except a little bigger. Adult carpenter ants grow to be as much as one-half inch long. Queens are often twice that size.
If you get really intimate with a carpenter ant you will notice that they have bent or “elbowed”
antennae. They only have one Node or bump on the joint between their thorax and abdomen (the thorax is the middle section and the abdomen is the rear section), and the thorax on some carpenter ants is burnt orange or chestnut red in color. They also have hairy abdomens.
You will never see a termite unless you break open a piece of infested wood or a shelter tube (tunnels that termites use to get from the soil, where they live, to the wood they are eating). Carpenter ants, on the other hand, roam around looking for food the same way ordinary ants do.
Termites eat wood. Carpenter ants do not. Instead, they burrow into wood to make a nest and they push the wood and other debris (called frass) out of their colonies. The inside of the infested wood is spotlessly clean and consists of smooth galleries through the wood.
Finding A Home
Most carpenter ant nests are outdoors in tree stumps, fence posts, and unfortunately, sometimes in porches. But these ants will also nest indoors in rotten or damp wood or sound wood adjacent to a source of moisture such as a sweaty pipe, washing machines, dishwashers or baseboards in damp areas. Although they normally excavate their colonies, they sometimes live in hollow doors, window frames, etc.
Carpenter ants are omnivorous meaning they eat all different types of food. Outdoors they eat plants, insects, (their favorite are aphids), fruit, etc. Indoors they eat household foodstuff, especially syrup, honey, sugar, fat and grease.
On their way back to the colony, they rarely take the same route twice, which can make it difficult to locate the nest. Even though the colony may be indoors, most of the ants will go outdoors to feed. This also reduces the likelihood of detection. To make matters worse, the ants are more active at night than in the daytime and some colonies go dormant during the winter. (The colony is most active during the spring and summer.)
Coming Out of the Closet
In the summer months, swarms of winged carpenter ants (both male and female) leave the
colony. They mate on the fly, return to earth and shed their wings. The female (queen) then finds a suitable place to lay her eggs which hatch into larvae. The larvae develop into adults in 2 to 10 months depending on the temperature. These adults are workers and at this stage the colony is only a queen plus 10 to 20 workers. The colony takes 3 to 6 years to develop, during which time the queen lays eggs and the workers care for the young. A queen has a life expectancy of 8 to 12 years while workers can live 4 or 5 years. When the colony has developed, winged males and females form. They remain in the colony over the winter and take flight the next summer to begin the process again. A developed colony may contain thousands of ants. Needless to say, the damage to wooden components can be significant to make a home for this many ants.
Kissing Your Ants Goodbye
We have to find the colony to get rid of the ants. This can be tricky. Sawdust at entrances to the colony is one method. Listening for the ants is another. At quiet times, a dry rustling sound can be heard from the colony (some specialists use stethoscopes to listen for them). If you bang on the wood, it disturbs them and the noise level from the colony will increase. Finding and eliminating the colony is best left to a pest control specialist.

Your best defense against carpenter ants is elimination of damp environments and rotted wood within the home. Storing firewood adjacent to the house or in the basement is not wise. While chemical treatment can kill the colony, they’ll be back next year if suitable conditions exist.
Courtesy of CarsonDunlop/com

Monday, February 9, 2015

EPA’s renovation, repair and painting rule (RRP)




EPA’s renovation, repair and painting rule (RRP)
The EPA’s Lead-Based Paint Renovation, Repair and Painting (RRP) Rule took effect in April 2010. It is a federal regulatory program covering anyone who disturbs painted surfaces where lead may be present.
Specifically, any contractor, including renovators, electricians, HVAC specialists, plumbers, painters and maintenance staff, who disrupts more than six-square-feet of lead paint in pre-1978 homes, schools, day care centers and other places where children spend time, must be certified.
Companies are certified and individuals must be trained in lead-safe work practices. Training providers must be accredited by the EPA.
Alert Consumers
EPA has launched an education program to alert consumers that unqualified workers could spread lead paint dust in housing built before 1978 even in doing a small job. Three simple steps help parents protect their children:
  • Get Your Home Tested. Ask for a lead inspection before you buy a home built before 1978.
  • Get Your Child Tested. Ask your doctor to test your young child for lead even if they seem healthy.
  • Get the Facts. More information about preventing childhood lead poisoning is available at www.leadfreekids.org
To protect tenants and family members when renovations take place, landlords, homeowners and home-buyers are directed to locate a contractor who is Lead-Safe Certified by visiting www.epa.gov/getleadsafe or calling 800-424-LEAD.

Sunday, February 8, 2015

common ice dam locations


Understanding Attics

Understanding the Attic
If you’re like most homeowners, you know the importance of insulating and tightening up your house to conserve energy. But what you may not know is that certain areas of a house need to breathe. One of these areas is the attic, which requires proper ventilation not only to maintain comfort below, but also to keep the very roof over your head solid and secure!
There are two particular villains that proper ventilation will fend off. These are heat and humidity.

Attic - Typical types of roof ventilation

Sources of Heat
Heat comes from the sun and, in summer, a poorly ventilated attic can reach temperatures as high as 150˚F which means that even with insulation in the attic floor, the rooms below will be hotter than necessary, less comfortable, and more expensive to air condition. Excess heat also can shorten the life of some roofing materials.
Sources of Humidity
Humidity comes primarily from within the home, drifting upward from showers, unvented clothes dryers, humidifiers and kitchen ranges. It also comes from other, not-so-obvious sources.
During cold weather, water vapor may condense in various areas of an insufficiently ventilated attic, seeping into wooden rafters or roof sheathing and rotting them. Moisture in the attic area can cause roof shingles to buckle and insulation to lose its effectiveness. It also creates an environment that is conducive to mildew.
In recap, four reasons you need proper attic ventilation, to help:
  • Prevent structural damages caused by moisture
  • Increase the life of the roofing materials
  • Reduce energy consumption
  • Enhance the comfort level of the rooms below the attic


Ice Dams
Ice DamsIf adequate ventilation is not installed, serious problems such as attic condensation, wood rot, mold, mildew and rusting metal will occur. These problems can affect the integrity of the roof as well as the integrity of the house, and can even cause health problems for family members in the home. One of the biggest roof problems associated with improper attic ventilation is an ice dam.
Ice dams occur when snow melts near the ridgelines of warm roofs (roofs without adequate ventilation). As the water runs down the roof to the overhand, it cools and freezes. If the snow continues this melt and freeze process, an ice dam can form that can seep under the shingles, through the sheathing and into the home.
Points to Ponder
To maintain the most efficient attic ventilation, make sure that vents from your bath, kitchen and laundry are not routed to the attic, but instead go directly to the outside.

Never block off your attic ventilation in winter, since moisture generated inside the home that rises to the attic can cause more problems in winter than in summer. With proper insulation between the attic floor and ceiling below, the ventilation will not lower the temperature in the house.

WHY I LOVE WHAT I DO FOR A LIVING...



A career as a Home Inspector does not look very glamorous or rewarding to most people and, to be honest, some people actually give off the impression that the Home Inspector is beneath them in some areas of the world.  Everyone is entitled to their own opinion and view of others and, regardless of what anyone may think, a Home Inspector is a very important person and a MAJOR part of their Clients Real Estate Transaction, which, for most, will be the largest investment of their lives.

Going to work every day, meeting new people from all walks of life, and seeing a different home every day, makes the life of a Home Inspector very interesting and fun.  The best part of my job is meeting new people every day, whether they are our Clients (the home buyers and sometimes sellers), Real Estate Agents, and also the current homeowners, is something I enjoy and something that has even led to lifelong friendships. Overall, the GREATEST part of my job as a Home Inspector is being able to HELP our Clients from making a bad investment or giving them that little bit of reassurance or confidence they have been waiting for in order to move forward with their investment.
Sometimes emotions get in the way and play a major part of a real estate transaction, which can sometimes lead to a poor decision or bad investment, which is the reason Home Inspectors are so important.

Helping our Clients have greater peace of mind during the real estate transaction and providing our expert input and recommendations on repairs and maintenance, is the greatest part of our job and it truly is rewarding.